How to Choose a Composite Door
A composite door involves more decisions than most people expect. Take them in the right order — construction first, appearance second — and you end up with a door that suits the house rather than the brochure.
- Settle the construction and security specification before you look at colours
- Choose the colour against your actual brickwork or stone, not on a screen
- Glass choice is the biggest single influence on how much light the hallway gets
- A low threshold is worth specifying and is easy to forget
- Check which way the door should open before the order is placed
Get the order right
Almost everyone starts with colour. It is the enjoyable part and it is where every brochure begins. But the decisions that determine whether you are still happy with the door in fifteen years are the ones underneath, and they are far harder to change afterwards.
Work through construction, security and threshold first. Then spend as long as you like on the colour.
1. Construction
A composite door is a glass-reinforced plastic skin over a core, wrapped in a reinforced frame. What sits in the middle varies a great deal between products at similar prices.
- Ask what the core is. A solid timber or high-density polymer core is substantially better than a foam fill. It feels different when you knock on it and it behaves differently under attack.
- Ask about the subframe. The slab should be wrapped in a reinforced edge, not simply skinned.
- Buy a door set, not a slab. A door set is the leaf, frame, hinges, lock and glazing engineered and tested together. A slab fitted into an old frame is a different product with different performance.
- Check the frame material and colour options. A brilliant door in a mismatched white frame is a common and avoidable disappointment.
2. Security
This is covered in detail in our guide to composite door security, but the short version belongs here because it is a specification decision rather than an afterthought.
- A cylinder tested to TS007 3-star, anti-snap, anti-bump, anti-drill and anti-pick.
- A multipoint lock with hooks and deadbolts, not rollers alone — rollers are compression adjusters, not security.
- Laminated glass in any glazed panel, with the beads on the inside.
- A door set tested to PAS 24 as a complete assembly.
The cylinder is the cheapest line on the order and the one that most determines whether the door is actually secure. Do not let it be the thing that gets value-engineered.
3. Threshold
Thresholds come in standard, low and level. A standard threshold is the most weather-tight; a low threshold is much easier to cross and looks neater.
This is the detail people most often wish they had thought about. If anyone in the household uses a wheelchair or a walking frame, pushes a pram, or is likely to in the next decade, specify low. On an exposed front elevation facing driving rain, weigh that against the weather performance and talk it through at the survey.
4. Style and proportion
The door should look as though it belongs to the house. A few reliable rules:
- Match the era loosely, not literally. A panelled door with a fanlight suits a Victorian or Edwardian house; a clean, simple slab suits a 1960s or modern property. A heavily ornate door on a plain house looks like it was bought rather than chosen.
- Look at the neighbours. Not to copy them, but because the street usually tells you what proportion of glass and what kind of panelling reads correctly on that house type.
- Consider a stable door for a kitchen or side entrance, particularly on a cottage or a house with a garden that gets used.
- Side panels and a wide frame transform a dark hallway, but they need the opening width to look deliberate rather than squeezed.
5. Colour
Now the fun part, with two practical warnings.
First, judge the colour against your actual brickwork or stone, outdoors, in daylight — not on a screen and not under showroom lighting. Reds and greens in particular shift a great deal against warm stone versus red brick. Ask for a sample if you are undecided.
Second, remember the door is seen from the street alongside the windows, the garage door and the frame. A colour that works in isolation can fight with everything around it. Anthracite grey, black, Chartwell green, racing green, blue, oak and cream are all popular for good reason; the question is which one your elevation wants.
Dual colour is available — a strong colour outside, white or light oak inside — and is worth considering if the hallway is dark.
6. Glass
Glazing has more effect on the feel of a hallway than anything else on the order, because most front halls have no other source of natural light.
- More glass means a brighter hall but less privacy and, depending on the design, a slightly less solid-looking door.
- Obscure and textured glass gives light without a view in. Levels of obscurity are graded, so ask to see the actual level rather than just the pattern.
- Decorative glass — leaded, stained, bevelled, Art Deco — suits period properties and dates quickly on modern ones. Choose it because the house asks for it.
- Laminated for security in any panel within reach of the lock. This is not optional in our view.
7. Hardware
Handles, letterplates, knockers, numerals, spy holes and hinges should all be in one finish and, ideally, one family. Chrome, satin chrome, black, brushed gold and graphite all look right on the correct door and wrong on the others.
A few practical points: a door-mounted letterplate versus a separate post box is worth deciding early, since it changes the door design; a lever handle and a pull handle behave quite differently in daily use; and a TS008-rated letterplate resists key fishing.
8. Which way it opens
Inward or outward, hinged left or right. This sounds trivial and it is the single most common source of order regret, because it is decided quickly and cannot be changed afterwards without a new frame.
Think about where the door lands when it is fully open, what it hits, whether it blocks a hallway or a radiator, and how you carry shopping through it. Stand in the doorway and mime it before you sign.
What to ask any installer
If you are comparing quotes, these five questions separate them far more effectively than the price does: what is the core made of; what is the cylinder rating; what are the locking points, by type; is the glass laminated or toughened; and is the whole door set PAS 24 certified.
Our composite doors are supplied as complete door sets with a solid core, a hooked multipoint lock, a TS007 3-star cylinder, laminated glazing and internal beads, and carry our 20-year guarantee.
- Choosing ProductsAre Composite Doors Secure?
A composite door is a genuinely strong door. The weak point in almost every real break-in is the lock cylinder, and that is the specification detail worth arguing about.
- Choosing ProductsAre Aluminium Windows Worth It?
Aluminium costs more and delivers slimmer frames, a longer life and a better finish. Whether that is worth it depends almost entirely on the size of your windows and the character of your house.
Still not sure where you stand?
Book a free home survey and we will check listed status, conservation area designation and the regulations that apply to your property before you commit to anything.